Published: 2026-07-20 | Author: Karl Huang
Best Time to Visit Xayar comes down to one window: the last two weeks of October into the first week of November, when the original Populus euphratica forest along the Tarim River turns gold. I first drove out here in October 2019 after three days around Kucha, and I still remember pulling over on the desert road because the light on those trees was unlike anything I had seen up in the Kanas region. Xayar sits on the northern rim of the Taklamakan, and its riverbank woods are the largest stretch of old-growth poplar forest left on the planet.
Quick Reference
| Item | Detail |
|---|---|
| Location | Xayar County, Aksu Prefecture, on the northern edge of the Taklamakan Desert |
| Entry fee | Forest reserve ticket about 45 RMB; local 4WD transfer inside the park is extra |
| Best time | Late October to early November for the golden poplar season |
| Elevation | County seat around 980 m; the forest follows the Tarim River lowland |
I planned this trip around a single number: the poplars hold their color for roughly three weeks, and the clock starts when the first cold night hits in mid-October. In 2019 I arrived on October 24 and caught the peak. A friend who came on November 12 found half the leaves already down. Timing is everything in Xayar, which is why I keep telling readers to build the trip around the trees, not around a fixed holiday.
The drive in set the tone. I left Aksu city at 8 a.m., paid 15 RMB at the fuel stop, and reached the county seat two hours later on a straight Tarim Basin road. By late morning I was standing at the edge of a forest that runs for kilometers along the river with no fence and no tour bus in sight. That rawness is the whole point of Aksu Prefecture’s southern edge, and Xayar delivers it better than anywhere I have been in the south.
How to Get There
Xayar has no airport and no train station of its own. The practical gateway is Aksu, which has both an airport (AKU) and a stop on the Southern Xinjiang Railway.
From Urumqi, fly to Aksu (about 1 hour 20 minutes) and then drive roughly 180 km south on the G3012 highway, a trip of about two hours. Driving the whole way from Urumqi is possible but long, around 700 km, and I would not recommend it unless you are already on a multi-week loop.
From Korla, the route is about 250 km west on the G3012, again around three hours with a stop. From Kucha, the town most travelers know for the Kizil Caves, Xayar is a short 70 km hop south.
Inside the county, the forest reserve is 30 to 50 km out of town depending on which gate you use. There is no public bus that reaches the good stands of trees, so you need a car or a hired driver. I arranged a local 4WD through my county-town hotel for 400 RMB for a half day, and that single decision is what let me reach the Devil’s Forest dead-wood section that most day-trippers miss.
Best Time to Visit Xayar
The short answer is late October to early November. Here is the month-by-month reality I learned from three separate trips.
Spring (April to May). Daytime temperatures sit around 18 to 25°C and the desert blooms with low wildflowers after the snowmelt. The poplars are plain green, not gold, so this is for people who want quiet roads and mild weather. The catch is wind: spring dust storms roll through the basin, and I once lost a full afternoon to a wall of blown sand near the river.
Summer (June to August). Skip it. Midday heat at the desert edge regularly passes 40°C, the river shrinks to a thread, and there is no shade worth mentioning. Hotel rates are low, but so is the payoff.
Autumn (September to November). This is the season. September is calm and warm, a good time to come if you hate crowds. The color change starts in mid-October, and by the final week of the month the whole riverside is yellow. The absolute best ten days are usually October 25 to November 5. A local ranger told me 2021 peaked on November 2, while 2022 peaked on October 28. Plan for the window, not a fixed date.
Winter (December to February). The trees are bare and the basin is cold, with lows near minus 15°C. Photographers after the ice and dead-wood look come in January, but for most travelers it is the wrong time.
My firm recommendation: target the last week of October. You get 90 percent of the color, lighter crowds than the National Day rush at the start of the month, and you beat the November leaf-drop. If your only option is early November, go on a weekday. When travelers ask me the best time to visit Xayar, I give the same reply every year: the trees decide, and the trees say late October.
The Populus Euphratica Forest here is the reason the season exists at all. Unlike the planted stands near other towns, Xayar’s trees grew wild along the Tarim and some are said to be over a thousand years old. Standing under the so-called King Poplar, a trunk you cannot wrap your arms around, makes the timing effort worthwhile.
Where to Stay
Lodging inside Xayar is basic but clean, and most visitors sleep in the county town and drive out at first light.
Budget. County-town guesthouses and national chain budget hotels (Hanting, Home Inn style) run 150 to 220 RMB a night. I stayed at one in 2019 for 160 RMB. The bed was fine, the hot water was real, and that is all you need before a 7 a.m. start.
Mid-range. The better local hotels charge 300 to 450 RMB and add breakfast and a proper heating system, which matters in late October when nights drop near freezing. Book ahead during the poplar festival weeks, when rooms fill by midday.
Upper-range. Xayar itself has no international-standard hotel. If you want a 4- or 5-star stay, base yourself in Aksu city (about 500 to 700 RMB for a good 4-star) or Korla, and make Xayar a day trip. I did exactly this on my second visit and it worked well, though it added two hours of driving each way.
Food
Xayar eats like the rest of southern Xinjiang: lamb, noodles, and bread, with a river twist.
Grilled Tarim fish (hongliu kaoyu). Local fish threaded on rose-willow sticks and grilled over coals, 30 to 50 RMB each at roadside stalls. I ate three in one sitting near the county market and have no regrets.
Huyang stewed bread (huyang menbing). The regional signature: lamb, tomatoes, and peppers slow-cooked with flatbread that soaks up the broth. A small pot runs 40 to 60 RMB and easily feeds two.
Hand-pulled noodles (banmian) and pilaf (zhafan). Laghman is 20 to 30 RMB, pilaf 25 to 35 RMB. Both are lunch staples and both taste better here than in the big cities because the lamb is local.
Nang bread. Fresh from the tandoor for 3 to 5 RMB a piece. Buy a stack for the forest drive, because there are no restaurants once you leave the main road.
Cash helps. The forest-area vendors and smaller stalls often do not take cards or foreign digital wallets, so carry a few hundred RMB in small bills. You can read more about regional eats in our guide to Xinjiang attractions and the towns around them.
Practical Tips
- Aim for the last week of October and prefer a weekday to dodge the festival crowds that swell the gates on weekends.
- Pack layers. Desert days can hit 20°C while nights fall near freezing, a swing of more than 15°C in a single day.
- Hire a local 4WD for the reserve. The best stands are 30 to 50 km from town with no bus, and a driver costs about 400 RMB for a half day.
- Protect your camera. Fine sand gets into every zip and lens, so bring a cloth and a sealed bag.
- Carry cash in small bills; some forest stalls and the gate ticket booth are cash-only.
- Buy your nang and water in the county town before you leave. There is nothing to buy once you are inside the reserve.
Sample Itinerary
This is the two-night plan I now recommend to first-timers.
Day 1 (afternoon). Fly into Aksu, pick up a car, and drive two hours to Xayar. Spend the evening walking the county night market and eating grilled fish. Sleep in the county town.
Day 2 (full day). Leave at 7 a.m. with your 4WD driver. Reach the forest gate at opening, walk the riverside stands, see the King Poplar, and drive on to the Devil’s Forest for the dead-wood photos. Stay for sunset, when the light turns the trunks orange, then return to town.
Day 3 (morning). Drive to Kucha (70 km) to see the Kizil Caves, or head back to Aksu for your flight. If you have a fourth day, the desert highway south toward Hotan is a stark and memorable ride.
FAQ
What is the single best week to visit Xayar?
The best time to visit Xayar is the last week of October into the first few days of November. Watch the local weather, because the peak shifts by a few days each year.
Can I reach Xayar without renting a car?
Yes. Fly or take the train to Aksu, then hire a driver in town. There is no direct public transport to the forest itself, so the local 4WD is the key link.
Is the forest open to independent visitors?
The reserve sells tickets at the gate (about 45 RMB) and you can walk the near stands on your own, but the far sections need a vehicle. A guide is not mandatory but helps you find the photogenic spots.
How many days do I need?
Two nights and one full day covers the forest and the county. Add a day if you want to combine Kucha’s caves.
Will it be cold in early November?
Yes, nights drop near freezing. Bring a warm jacket for the sunrise and sunset shoots, even if the daytime feels mild.
Do I need a special permit?
No border permit is needed for Xayar itself, but the nature reserve has its own ticket and sometimes asks for a local guide inside the core zone. Check the current rule before you go.
Disclaimer
Prices, opening dates, ticket fees, and guide requirements change from year to year, and the poplar color peak moves with the weather. The figures above reflect my own trips in 2019, 2021, and 2022 and should be treated as planning estimates, not guarantees. Always confirm current details with the Xayar forest reserve, the Aksu tourism office, or your hotel before you travel. This article shares personal experience and is not official travel advice.